port-de-paix, a coastal city in haiti's northwest department, presents a vivid picture of resilience and daily life. its oceanfront location is immediately apparent, marked by a constant flow of boats.
these vessels serve dual purposes, facilitating fishing activities and transporting people and goods to and from the nearby ile de la tortue. a notable feature on a nearby hill are several large windmills, once a symbol of progress thanks to a german development agency, gt z.
unfortunately, the local expertise to maintain these structures has dwindled, leaving them as silent, spinning relics that no longer generate power.
electricity availability in port-de-paix is, at best, inconsistent. the area where this account is situated receives power primarily from a large generator operated by an american missionary school, with neighboring residents paying for a connection.
for larger businesses and organizations, powering their own generators is a necessity. the city's road infrastructure is a mixed bag; some routes are well-maintained, while others have deteriorated due to a lack of ongoing upkeep. during dry spells, the city contends with dust, and when the rains arrive, it transforms into a muddy landscape.
the pulse of port-de-paix: a bustling urban center
port-de-paix is a dynamic and busy city, with a pervasive presence of scooter taxis that efficiently shuttle residents and visitors around.
the united nations stabilization mission in haiti (minustah) maintains a significant base here, collaborating with governmental bodies and civil society to uphold security. as is characteristic of haitian cities, port-de-paix is alive with music, and its inhabitants are known for their enjoyment of life.
a common experience for anyone ordering food, regardless of the establishment, is that service can be exceptionally slow. generally, people in port-de-paix are welcoming towards americans. it's important to note that prices are typically displayed in 'haitian dollars,' a conceptual currency as there is no physical denomination by that name.
religious faith is prevalent, evidenced by the numerous churches scattered throughout the city. while navigating the city can be challenging, even a rudimentary grasp of creole significantly enhances the ease of getting around.
interactions in port-de-paix often involve humor and spirited discussions.
honking horns and graffiti serve as forms of communication, and requests for money are not uncommon. despite the potential for getting lost, residents are generally helpful and will offer assistance to those in need. waste management presents a considerable challenge, with systems being largely absent.
the city's landscape and social dynamics have been profoundly reshaped by the earthquake, leading to a substantial increase in its population. estimates suggest that as many as 45,000 displaced individuals have arrived in the northwest region. these newcomers include those who lost everything in port-au-prince and have no intention of returning, those who may not find opportunities and will eventually depart, and those who would choose to remain if employment prospects were more favorable.
challenges and resilience: the aftermath of disaster
many of the displaced individuals are finding temporary shelter with host families.
the public hospital, immaculate conception, is struggling to meet the increased healthcare demands stemming from the influx of people from port-au-prince. both the hospital's infrastructure and its staffing levels require significant improvement. hospital personnel have been treating a large number of displaced individuals who sustained injuries during the earthquake.
at the time of the quake, the hospital lacked a resident surgeon. fortunately, the haitian government managed to provide additional staff, and a rotary club in the united states offered temporary healthcare providers. currently, the hospital faces shortages of essential medical supplies and equipment, including those necessary for setting fractures and performing surgical procedures.
water is sourced from a communal cistern and then distributed to the various hospital units.
the hospital is situated amidst surrounding slum housing, and its concrete perimeter fence is in a state of disrepair in many sections. residents lacking adequate waste disposal facilities often discard their trash over the hospital wall, into the hospital complex.
livestock roam freely within the hospital grounds and occasionally seek shelter inside the buildings. a crucial asset is the presence of a blood bank managed by the red cross. as one of only three hospitals in the region and the sole referral facility, its importance cannot be overstated.
organizations interested in supporting this vital institution are encouraged to reach out.
economic realities and infrastructure development
the local economy is also facing significant strain. job opportunities were limited even before the recent challenges.
the rural areas surrounding port-de-paix are remote, and agriculture is the primary source of livelihood, though it largely consists of subsistence farming. irrigation systems, once common, are now scarce, with the exception of larger landowners who maintain their private systems.
the poor condition of the roads poses a significant obstacle to transporting agricultural produce to regional markets. the united nations development program (undp) has plans to upgrade the road connecting port-de-paix to jean rabel, a project anticipated to provide considerable assistance.
several micro-credit lending institutions, including fonkoze, coples, and aclam, supported by world concern, operate in the area, offering vital financial support.
a prevalent sentiment among the residents of port-de-paix is a feeling of abandonment by both their national and international governments.
a pervasive sense of hopelessness exists regarding the prospects for education, employment, and a brighter future. this sentiment partly explains two critical issues facing the region: its role as a trans-shipment point for cocaine and the significant number of haitian migrants who attempt to leave haiti by sea from this primary region.
the haitian and american coast guards actively patrol the northern coast of haiti to deter unauthorized departures. the likelihood of successfully reaching destinations such as the bahamas, turks and caicos, the united states, or cuba without interception is quite low.
those who are apprehended are returned to cap haitian, receive basic assistance, and are then transported back to their home communities. perhaps port-de-paix's most significant asset is its strategic geographical position. an upgrade to the port facilities could enable the city to handle a much wider array of legal commodities.
travel and accommodation in port-de-paix
travel to port-de-paix can be undertaken via land by taking route national one to gonaives, and then another route to port-de-paix, a journey that typically consumes most of the day.
alternatively, flights are available from port-au-prince or cap haitian to port-de-paix via tortuga air. for those seeking a more scenic, albeit rugged, experience, a multi-leg trip between cap haitian and port-de-paix is also an option.
accommodation options in port-de-paix are predominantly located along the waterfront. the rendezvous left is often cited as the preferred choice due to its waterfront location, cleanliness, and the presence of a bar and restaurant. as a secondary option, hotel holiday or hotel de la paix can serve in a pinch, though they are not particularly remarkable.
exploring beyond the city
the city of port-de-paix itself offers limited tourist attractions.
a more rewarding excursion would be a trip to ile de la tortue, accessible by sail or motor boat. it is advisable to have local haitian companions when undertaking such a trip, as negotiating with boat captains can be a lengthy and demanding process.
recent reports indicate that officials from the general directorate of civil protection in port-au-prince stated they were unaware of the prevailing situation in port-de-paix, highlighting communication breakdowns between regional and central authorities.
in chansolme, a village located seven miles south of port-de-paix, residents have urgently appealed for assistance. as heavy rains continue, the inhabitants are contending with rising water levels and worsening conditions, awaiting aid that many feel is long overdue. concurrently, as persistent heavy rains inundate communities across haiti, demands for improved disaster preparedness and proactive governmental intervention are intensifying, particularly from departments such as the northwest, north, southeast, and grand'anse, where fatalities, numerous injuries, and substantial property damage have been reported.
multiple fatalities and injuries have been specifically reported from dame-marie.
kervenson martial, an accomplished journalist, has been working at nationale d'haiti rnh in port-de-paix since [year - placeholder, as original content did not provide a specific year]. he has also contributed as a journalist and presenter of political programs on rg80 and pro in northwestern haiti.
kervenson's educational background includes studies at the faculties of administrative and political sciences at valparaiso university, and he holds certificates in communication and data journalism from isfh and unesco. he is fluent in french and creole, with a working proficiency in english and spanish.
readers can sign up for the haitian times daily news roundup to stay informed about the latest news from haiti and the diaspora, delivered directly to their inbox. residents were observed using shovels and other makeshift tools to clear passages by their homes and businesses on rue du quai in downtown port-de-paix on december 4, [year - placeholder, as original content did not provide a specific year], following an extended period of thirty days of torrential rainfall.
an overview of the situation reveals that many families in port-de-paix, the capital city of the northwest department, are still grappling with the aftermath of month-long heavy rains that resulted in devastating flooding and a desperate appeal for government assistance.